Free cheat sheet
The Pokémon Card Pricing Cheat Sheet
Stop guessing what a card is worth and stop overpaying on eBay. This is the one-page reference for pricing any Pokémon card the way a dealer does: read three printed fields, check the right source, adjust for condition, and know when the graded comp is the only one that matters. Built by Foil, free.
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What's inside
- The three fields to read off any card (and why the name alone never prices it)
- Where to look up price: eBay sold vs TCGplayer market vs the graded ladder
- The condition multipliers, NM through DMG (free preview below)
- Raw vs graded, and the three-part test for when grading is worth the fee
- A quick note on pricing Japanese cards
- The five pricing mistakes that cost collectors the most
- A 60-second routine you can run on any card
The condition multipliers
Every pricing source quotes a Near Mint price by default. If your card is not NM, adjust by these multipliers, the ones bulk buyers and TCGplayer sellers actually use:
| Condition | % of NM | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Near Mint (NM) | 100% | The reference. Sharp corners, clean glossy surface, no visible whitening. |
| Lightly Played (LP) | 80–90% | Whitening on an edge or corner under direct light; nothing obvious from arm's length. |
| Moderately Played (MP) | 60–75% | Obvious edge wear, minor surface scratches. Generally not a grading candidate. |
| Heavily Played (HP) | 40–55% | Major whitening, surface scratches from arm's length, a possible soft bend. |
| Damaged (DMG) | 20–35% | Tears, water damage, creases that break the front face, or ink. |
Full breakdown of the defects that move a card down a tier is in the condition guide.
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